A sun-dappled park, the murmur of conversation, and the sharp clack of chess pieces on a xiangqi board. This is a familiar scene across China, where public games are not just casual pastimes; they are woven into the very fabric of daily life. These communal games of the parks unite people, young and old, offering both mental and physical exercise while preserving centuries-old traditions.
From the lively exchanges of majiang to the rhythmic spinning of tops, here’s a deeper look at some of China’s most iconic public games and the best places to experience them in action.
Majiang
Majiang, commonly known as mahjong, is a game of sharp memory, quick thinking, and strategic planning, and is one of China’s most cherished pastimes. Played with intricately decorated tiles, the goal is to form winning sets while outsmarting your opponents. The game brings together friends and strangers, creating a sense of community through lively competition. Interestingly, the rules can vary regionally. In Sichuan province, players often focus on stripping down their hands to simplify winning, while in Guangdong province, more elaborate combinations and point systems are used.
Where to watch: People’s Park, Chengdu
Under the shade of the old trees of People’s Park in Chengdu, locals spend hours playing majiang, often with a flask of tea at their side. The park’s easygoing vibe makes it the ideal place to observe this classic game, where both the players and spectators are fully immersed in the moment.
Chinese Chess
In parks across China, it’s common to see locals deeply engaged in xiangqi, or Chinese chess. Players sit at stone tables, the board bisected by a symbolic “river” that adds tactical depth to their moves. With wooden pieces etched with Chinese characters, they carefully maneuver their forces, each striving to capture the opponent’s general (king) while balancing offensive and defensive strategies. The intensity of the match contrasts with the relaxed park setting, as groups of onlookers gather to offer advice and friendly critiques, making each game a shared spectacle of skill and camaraderie.
Where to watch: Temple of Heaven Park, Beijing
Temple of Heaven Park in Beijing is more than an architectural masterpiece. It’s also a hub of activity, particularly in the early mornings when elderly men congregate for spirited games of xiangqi. The chess tables here are hotspots for friendly competition, and the energy around them is contagious.
Go
Go, or weiqi, is a game of patience, deep strategy, and quiet intensity. Played on a 19 by 19 grid with black and white stones, the goal is to control the board by surrounding the opponent’s stones. The rules are simple, but the strategy is anything but. It is a game where every move counts, requiring players to think multiple steps ahead. The tension builds with each stone placed on the board, and the eventual victory or defeat comes not with a dramatic flourish, but with quiet acknowledgement.
Where to watch: Lingering Garden, Suzhou
Suzhou’s Lingering Garden, a UNESCO World Heritage site, provides the perfect setting to watch a game of weiqi. The serene, meticulously designed garden adds to the contemplative atmosphere of the game.
Shuttlecock Kicking
In open spaces across China, people of all ages come together to play ti jianzi, or shuttlecock kicking. Using a feathered shuttlecock and impressive skill, players rely on their feet, legs, and occasionally their heads to keep the shuttlecock aloft. Ti jianzi is fast paced, requiring skill and balance, but it’s also deeply social, often played in small groups where laughter is just as common as impressive feats of coordination.
Where to watch: Yuexiu Park, Guangzhou
In the heart of Guangzhou, Yuexiu Park offers the perfect setting for shuttlecock kicking. Early in the morning, locals gather in groups amidst lush greenery to enjoy this lively game.
The Whip Top Game
The whip top game, or da tuoluo, is a traditional Chinese game where players use a whip to keep a wooden or metal top spinning. It requires rhythm, precision, and just the right amount of force to maintain the top’s motion. The sound of the whip cracking and the whirring spin of the top often attracts plenty of players and spectators. In the winter months, the game is especially popular on frozen surfaces, where the tops glide more smoothly.
Where to watch: Fuxing Park, Shanghai
Fuxing Park in Shanghai occasionally offers a glimpse of this traditional game, especially during festival times such as Chinese New Year. While it’s less common to see nowadays, when players do gather, they create a lively and communal atmosphere.
“Pull a Root”
A lesser known but beloved game, especially among children, involves using fallen leaves to compete by interlocking their stems and pulling until one snaps, with the victor proudly earning the title of “King of the Stem.” This playful game, called ba genr, is a quick test of strategy and luck, often enjoyed by younger park-goers. It’s a nostalgic part of many childhoods in China and remains a cherished activity during park visits.
Where to watch:
Children play ba genr in parks with plenty of trees and open spaces, particularly during the autumn months when fallen leaves are abundant.
Whether it is the strategic depth of Chinese chess, the fast-paced fun of shuttlecock kicking, or the hypnotic rhythm of the whip top game, watching or participating in these games offers an authentic way to experience China, one move at a time. Get in touch to craft a personalized journey that puts you in the heart of these timeless traditions.
By Gabrielle Keepfer
