WildChina>WildChina>Off the beaten path in Shimen County

Shimen (石门) County of Changde (常德) prefecture in Hunan province — On a trip through Hunan to learn home-style recipes, the train from Changsha passes flooded rice fields gridding the landscape. A mixture of earthen homes and tile-faced two-story homes perch themselves in between.

It is the weekend and students have packed the train, having bought standing room only tickets. There are no seats available, and they stand for up to four hours, disembarking at their respective villages. The train is bustling with the energy that preludes a weekend of fun. The same energy finds me anticipating  new adventure in Shimen.

Unable to buy train tickets in advance for departure, the free time suggests a gander.
Stepping into town from the train station — arrival in Shimen
石门县博物馆 (Shímén xiàn bówùguǎn, Shimen County Museum)
While weeds grows wild in cracks, a garden is tended by groundskeepers.
The former temple built in 1052 AD houses old furniture, clothes and other historical relics.
Not really sure why this man was chosen to rest above ground. The intention to preserve him as a historical figure was surely out of the question. The scare of seeing his body certainly put the Shimen County museum on the map of China for me.
Any other museum might not have permitted this, but the drum and bell on the grounds were free for the pounding and chiming.

While traveling, markets are a must-see. In China, there tends to be an open market in most neighborhoods. If one doesn’t run into one, a wander or guidance in the right direction will lead to a colorful peek into the local diet, people, and culture.

A market nearby invited a wander.
Chinese herbal medicine
Chilies spice the market scene.
While I’ve seen là ròu (腊肉, cured pork) throughout Sichuan, Yunnan, and Hunan, but never had I seen such a wide assortment of dried meats!
Dried chicken and fish hang, looking like creatures that died from fright.
A fine line between taxidermy and food, all parts of a pig can not only be eaten, but dried to be eaten.
Tucked into another open-front shop a machine rests with broken noodles scattered about.
Freshly cut noodles hang from rafters to dry.
A birthday meal of longevity noodles made from these could ensure two lifetimes.
Nearby, fentiao (potato starch noodles) are sold in bundles.
Encased in this ceramic oven appears to be a matrix of smaller ceramic urns.
In each urn stews a soup.

After the market prelude, I went on to meet Zhou Yi and her husband in their newly-wed nest wherein the next day I would learn their favorite new-family recipes.

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Interested in learning more about China’s food history? Take a look at China for Foodies, a set departure excursion exploring Beijing, Xi’an, Chengdu, Shanghai and Hangzhou.

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