At WildChina, we believe the best way to experience a destination is through the stories that make it come alive. That’s why we asked Paul Moreno, who leads our Hong Kong office and is a native of the city, to share his favorite Hong Kong neighborhoods with us. Paul offers an insider’s perspective on what makes these areas truly special, from beloved local dining spots to scenic hiking routes.
In this first instalment of our series exploring Hong Kong’s neighborhoods, Paul takes us through Sha Tin and the Central and Western District, two places that hold personal significance and cherished memories for him.
Sha Tin
I grew up in Sha Tin, a master-planned town developed in the early 1970s on the northern foothills of Lion Rock, where vast farmland and river marshes once stretched. Today, Sha Tin is home to 660,000 people and is known for landmarks like the Sha Tin Racecourse and the Hong Kong Sports Institute, where Olympic medalists — and my sister, a former national tennis player — trained. My father worked as a tennis coach there for over 15 years before his retirement in 1997.
While Sha Tin became famous for dishes like roast pigeon and chicken congee, to those of us who lived there, it was simply home. Here are a few of my favorite things to experience in Sha Tin:
“Mushroom” Eateries
These iconic mushroom-shaped buildings, built in the late 1970s, were originally street-side eateries that adapted to evolving food safety standards. While many have since been upgraded with air-conditioning and modern decor, my favorite is the Lau Man Li branch in Pok Hong, which still captures the old-school charm of a casual, outdoor dining spot. The menu offers a mix of seafood, meat, and vegetable dishes, along with quick-and-simple, eat-and-run meals. For an authentic, local experience, this is the place to go.
Shatin Pass Hike
Before roads were built, the only ways to travel from Kowloon to parts of the New Territories were by sailboat or on foot. The Shatin Pass, located on the northern foothills of Lion Rock, was an important route connecting the two areas. From this vantage point, the city looks entirely different, and I’m always captivated by the view. I also enjoy stopping at the small snack shop along the way that serves the most delicious, sweet tofu dessert.
Sai Kung Pak Tam Chung Country Park
Just 15 minutes from my home, this park offers lush, coastal views and a peaceful escape from the city. I enjoy hiking the Sheung Yiu Family Walk past the Sheung Yiu Folk Museum with my three dogs, and in spring, I make my way to Long Ke Beach — a serene spot with powder-white sand. It’s accessible by a 3-hour hike from the park, or a short taxi ride. Weekdays are ideal for a quieter experience before the weekend crowds arrive.
Central and Western District
At my previous job, my office was in the heart of Central, giving me plenty of opportunities to explore the area after work. While many shops and establishments have come and gone, the streets and alleyways have retained their charm over the years, evolving into lively and fascinating places to stroll. Here are a few of my favorite spots to wander through:
Central Market
Central Market, a Bauhaus-designed structure built in 1938, was once the main wet market for the Central district. When I worked in Central, the market was in disuse, but I’d often pass by on my way to the Central Escalators. Since then, it has been repurposed and revitalized into a lively space filled with shops and dining spots offering Hong Kong-themed goods. Today, it stands as a vibrant, modern take on its original form, reflecting both the area’s history and its evolution.
Lan Fong Yuen
This eatery, or “Tea Restaurant” as it’s called in Cantonese, is famous for its Hong Kong Stockings Milk Tea. I used to grab a wooden stool and sit in their original streetside stall, enjoying the tea made the old-fashioned way. In the past, the tea was strained multiple times through nylon stockings, creating a strong brew with a rich color, made with Ceylon tea and mixed with evaporated milk. The use of nylon stockings and evaporated milk speaks to the history and availability of ingredients when this drink became popular. On a recent visit, the line stretched almost 50 meters, so it’s best to go early before the crowds arrive. The tea still tastes the same, and every sip brings back a flood of memories for me.
Stanley Street and Gutzlaff Street
At the end of Stanley Street in the heart of Central, there are three stalls still in operation, selling noodles, rice meals, and full dishes. The Dai Pai Dong — an iconic feature of old Hong Kong that literally translates to “Big Sign Stall” — is a roadside, informal food stall that emerged to meet the needs of a rapidly growing population. I recall similar Dai Pai Dong restaurants in Sha Tin, where I grew up, offering everything from congee to rice meals and full meals. It’s remarkable that Central still has these stalls, cooking with live flames (gas or kerosene), which gives the food a distinctive taste. Dining here brings a real sense of nostalgia.
Connected to the last stall, heading south toward the SOHO district, is Gutzlaff Street, now the main local market for the area. Virtually unchanged for as long as I can remember, this street is lined with stalls selling a wide variety of ingredients, and it’s quite a sight to behold.
Bridges Street and Staunton Street
This area is home to well-preserved buildings repurposed for various uses. One of my favorite restaurants, 22 Ships, is located near the PMQ (Police Married Quarters), which was once housing for police officers and is now a creative hub with design studios and galleries. Diagonally opposite is the Hong Kong News-Expo, housed in the old Bridges Street Market building, showcasing the city’s media history. Next door, the restored building at 88-90 Staunton Street and surrounding tenement buildings offer a glimpse into early 20th-century Hong Kong.
The area is also filled with small coffee shops and cafes I often frequent. From here, I enjoy walking south or west toward Sheung Wan or the Western District, admiring more of the city’s historic architecture.
Upper Lascar Row (Cat Street Flea Market)
Located 40 meters northwest of the Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road, Upper Lascar Row is known for its selection of collectibles and antiques. When I’m here, time seems to slip away. It’s a great spot for affordable antique hunting, with a mix of trendy coffee shops and flea market stalls offering everything from well-curated antiques to quirky knick-knacks. The Chinese name, which translates to “Moorish Upper Street,” is a nod to the Lascar contingent of the British Colonial Forces who once camped here.
Keep an eye out for more in our series as we continue to uncover the stories and spots that make Hong Kong unforgettable. To dive deeper into these neighborhoods and plan your own exploration, get in touch with our travel designers.
By Paul Moreno
