In the Footsteps of Wallis Simpson: A Paul French Expert-Led Journey

Wallis Simpson Walking Tour

Embark on a captivating historical journey, following in the footsteps of the enigmatic Wallis Simpson with Paul French at the lead. Starting at the Hotel NUO (formerly Grand Hotel de Pekin), the adventure leads to the nearby Legation Quarter, a district steeped in a history of hosting foreign ambassadors. Stroll through the picturesque Shijia Hutong area, exploring the Hutong Museum and the former residence of Wallis Simpson. The exploration extends to the lively lanes of antique and curio stores that Wallis once bargain hunted in around Qianmen, providing a glimpse into the dynamic essence of old Beijing, where the past harmonizes with the pulse of contemporary living.

Afternoon at Leisure

Head back to the hotel for a few hours of down time to rest up and refresh before the evening’s activities.

Peking Duck Dinner

With crispy, succulent skin snapping effortlessly to reveal the tender meat below, it’s unsurprising that Beijing’s signature dish, Peking duck, has been the benchmark of indulgence and culinary perfection in China for hundreds of years. We highly recommend tucking into a meal quite literally fit for an emperor, where the bird is cooked whole in stone ovens and sliced table-side in true imperial style.

Midnight in Peking Walking Tour

Embark on a post-duck stroll to immerse in the evocative world of another of Paul French’s books, Midnight in Peking. On this walking tour around the Dongbianmen area, discover the supposedly haunted Fox Tower, rumored to be the playground of fox spirits since the 1600s, Then the dimly lit hutongs and grand boulevards that once captivated the city’s diplomatic elite. Picture the vibrant nightlife and the hidden corners where rickshaws once glided. Contemplate the tragic fate of Pamela Werner and the complex investigation that unfolded in the heart of 1930s Beijing to discover her murderer. This atmospheric walk brings history to life, revealing a captivating blend of intrigue, mystery, and the timeless allure of old Peking.

Old Summer Palace

Once known as the “Versailles of the East”, the Old Summer Palace was a vast complex of palaces, lakes, and gardens constructed in 1709 and used by emperors of the Qing Dynasty for 150 years of respite. Until it was looted and destroyed by Anglo-French forces during the Second Opium War in 1860, the Old Summer Palace was arguably the best combination of Western and Chinese-style buildings and gardens in the world. Imagine the former grandeur of this old imperial residence as you wander past pastoral hills, lakes, and small bits of ancient ruins.

Fragrant Hills

Spend the afternoon on a light hike, exploring the scenic beauty of Fragrant Hills, a place that dates back to 1186 during the Jin dynasty. In her memoirs, Wallis recalled weekends spent in the Fragrant Hills just outside Peking as “joyous”. She reminisced that the area ‘…abounded in temples of every imaginable description and configuration, dozens and dozens of them, mostly empty and deserted.’
After your hike, retreat to the elegant Beijing Fragrant Hills Hotel, a masterpiece built in 1982 by the renowned architect I.M. Pei, for some well-deserved refreshment. As dusk settles, venture to the intriguing Ghost Laughing Stone to witness the spectacular sunset over Beijing, with the city gradually lighting up for the evening.

High Speed Train to Tianjin

Transfer to the railway station and board a high-speed train bound for the vibrant city of Tianjin, a journey of approximately 30 minutes. Upon arriving in Tianjin, your local WildChina guide will meet you in the arrival hall with your private vehicle on standby. Porters will assist with bringing your luggage from the train to the vehicle.

Wudadao (Five Great Avenues)

Wudadao, Five Great Avenues, is an area of Tianjin that was historically home to the foreign concessions. As a result, the architecture in this district is unique and varied, featuring styles typical of European countries including Britain, Italy, and Germany. Complete with tree-lined boulevards and a clock tower, a walk down Wudadao transports you back through Tianjin’s marbled and little-known past as an international treaty port.

Porcelain House

Standing in Tianjin’s old French concession, Porcelain House is a five-story French-style mansion that is literally covered in ornate porcelain. Today a chinaware museum, the ceramics being preserved at Porcelain House date back as far as the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD). Inside the roof, a 768-meter (2,519 foot) dragon made up of over 10,000 pieces of porcelain is a highlight.

Haihe River Cruise

Take in Tianjin’s best sites from the water on this hour-long cruise along the Haihe River. From the Ancient Cultural Street to the Tianjin Urban Planning Museum, witness the diversity of architectural styles found throughout this city known for its contrasts. Look out for fishermen catching their dinner, swimmers out for a dip (depending on the weather!), and the intricate carvings adorning the older bridges you sail under.

In the evening, your guide will accompany you to The Astor Hotel, where Wallis Simpson once lodged, for check-in around 5:00 pm. After settling into your accommodations, join for a memorable dinner at the hotel, where Paul French will enchant you with tales from Tianjin’s illustrious past. Prepare to be captivated as he recounts the city’s days as a bustling treaty port, narrates the lives of prominent foreigners who left their mark, and unravels the events surrounding Wallis Simpson’s visit in 1924.

High Speed Train to Shanhaiguan

From Tianjin, embark on a scenic high-speed train journey (~1.5hrs) to the historic Shanhaiguan. Upon arriving, your local WildChina guide will meet you in the arrival hall with your private vehicle on standby.

Shanhaiguan Great Wall

Shanhaiguan, gateway to the magnificent Great Wall and a place steeped in intriguing history. Explore the charming town and marvel at the “First Pass Under Heaven,” where the Great Wall meets the sea. Discover the very fort where Wallis Simpson once resided, adding a touch of personal intrigue to this historical landmark. After soaking up the history, stories, and breathtaking views, return to Tianjin by train (~1.5hrs), reflecting on the wonders of this ancient and captivating destination.

High Speed Train to Tianjin

Your WildChina guide and private chauffeur will escort you to the train station and help you check in for your train. Upon arriving in Tianjin, your local WildChina guide will meet you in the arrival hall with your private vehicle on standby to take you to your hotel.

Next Stop: Shanghai

Once a mere backwater fishing village, the destiny and fortunes of Shanghai changed forever when the British opened their first concession here in 1842, followed soon after by the French and Americans. Shanghai today retains those charms in the tree-lined streets of the former French Concession and iconic banking houses along the Bund; at the same time, the urban bustle and multitudes of skyscrapers are a testament to Shanghai’s aspirations to be a major international metropolis. Now the financial capital of China, Shanghai is a great place to check out the old, the new and the foreign in this worldly economic and cultural center.

Flight to Shanghai

Your WildChina guide and private chauffeur will escort you to the airport and help you check in to your flight. Upon arriving in Shanghai, your local WildChina guide will meet you in the arrival hall with your private vehicle on standby to take you to the Fairmont Peace Hotel for check in.

The Fairmont Peace Hotel, formerly the Cathay Hotel, gained fame in its heyday as the most luxurious hotel east of the Suez Canal. Constructed in 1929 by Sir Victor Sassoon, a wealthy British businessman whose family built a fortune trading opium and then became significant property owners in Shanghai. The iconic building proudly stands at the prominent corner of the Bund and Nanjing Road. The luxurious walls of the hotel welcomed a wide range of visitors – artists, diplomats, travelers, and celebrities – the elite of the world. Among the guests were some renowned individuals, including Chiang Kai-shek, Edgar Snow, Charlie Chaplin, Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford. It was here that Noël Coward, sick with the flu, wrote his iconic play “Private Lives” in just four days.

Lunch at Dragon Phoenix

Savor a delectable Shanghainese feast at the renowned Dragon Phoenix restaurant, where authentic flavors and exquisite culinary artistry await. Immerse in the ambiance while Paul French presents an introductory talk on Wallis Simpson’s time in the city, adding a fascinating historical dimension to the dining experience.

The Bloody Saturday Walking Tour

Explore Shanghai’s past on a “Bloody Saturday” walk with Paul French. As chronicled in his Penguin Special, Bloody Saturday: Shanghai’s Darkest Day, journey back to a crucial moment in the city’s history. Start at the iconic Peace Hotel, witness to Shanghai’s changes over the years. Picture the hustle of 1937 Nanjing Road, a top shopping spot. Stroll down Fuzhou Lu, imagining its lively past with international influences. Discover hidden tales in the backstreets and reach Yanan and Xizang Lu, where the vibrant Great World amusement center once sprawled across an entire city block and seven stories. This walk uncovers the tragic events of Bloody Saturday, offering a glimpse into Shanghai’s rich history.

Yuyuan Garden

Manufacturing and megacities may be the name card of today’s China, but Yuyuan Garden is a postcard example of a more traditional side to the country, one of beautifully manicured gardens, punctuated with rocks and trees, interspersed with green ponds and framed by white walls with circular doorways. Built in what is now downtown Shanghai by a Ming Dynasty official, Yuyuan Garden’s pavilions and bridges, rockeries and teahouse, will transport you to a world far away from skyscrapers and bullet trains.

Shanghai History Museum

Explore Shanghai’s rich heritage at the Shanghai History Museum, located in the stunning old Race Club building. Marvel at the architectural grandeur of this historic landmark as you delve into the city’s captivating past. From its humble origins as a fishing village to its rise as a global metropolis, the museum’s exhibits vividly narrate Shanghai’s story through fascinating artifacts, photographs, and interactive displays.

Former French Concession

The elegant, tree-lined streets of the former French Concession are steeped in European charm. This enclave, governed by France for almost a century until the 1940s, was once the domain of China’s rich and powerful, from revolutionaries to movie stars. Step inside the creaking hallways of mansions that have housed members of the French, Japanese, Nationalist, and Communist elite, and relive the glamor of pre-World War II Shanghai.

Columbia Country Club

Venture to the exclusive Columbia Country Club, a historic landmark that has played a significant role in Shanghai’s social and sporting scene. Picture the glamorous gatherings and sporting events that once graced its grounds as you admire the elegant architecture and manicured lawns, remnants of a bygone era of exclusivity and leisure. Enjoy a fascinating insight into a unique facet of Shanghai’s history and the enduring legacy of this prestigious club.

Drinks at the Jazz Bar

Step back in time to experience the legendary jazz music and classic cocktails at the Peace Hotel. The hotel’s jazz bar is famed for its six-piece jazz band made up of mainly octogenarians who can regularly be found playing to a crowd of reminiscent listeners, loyal locals, and hotel guests alike. Conclude your Shanghai escapade by joining Paul French, the host, for a heartfelt toast, marking a poignant moment in your Shanghai experience.

Next Stop: Guangzhou

Rising up over the lazy Pearl River rests Guangzhou (formerly known as Canton), a sprawling port city northwest of Hong Kong. As China’s third-largest city and the capital of Guangdong province, this southern city is a booming metropolis where a colorful patchwork of cutting-edge architecture and colonial-era buildings line the narrow, verdant streets. However, Guangzhou’s impressive population belies the city’s way of life, with much of the megacity still humming along at a pleasantly relaxed pace. Culturally diverse and gastronomically rich, there is no shortage of atmospheric streets to wander or plates of dim sum to devour.

Flight to Guangzhou

Your WildChina guide and private chauffeur will escort you to the airport and help you check in to your flight. Upon arriving in Guangzhou, your local WildChina guide will meet you in the arrivals hall with your private vehicle on standby to take you to the White Swan Hotel, a historical landmark of the city which has hosted many heads of state.

Shamian Island

An important port for Guangzhou’s foreign trade until the mid 19th century, Shamian Island was embanked in 1859 and divided between the French and British as a concession. Trading companies and merchants built stone mansions that are, today, considered some of the most well-preserved Western European-style building complexes in China. Gothic, Baroque, and Necolassical styles all stand side by side on these streets, overlooking the Pearl River. Wallis Simpson trod these same streets. Follow in her footsteps with Paul French as he takes you to visit the Victoria Hotel (where Wallis Simpson stayed), Our Lady of Lourdes Church, and the former Shamian Club, among others treasures of this former foreign enclave.

Canton Tower

Reaching heights of 610 meters, Canton Tower is one of the tallest freestanding structures in the world. Nicknamed ‘slim waist’, due to its graceful appearance, Canton Tower is located in the centre of Guangzhou, facing Haixinsha Island on one side and the new Central Business District on the other. The views from the viewing platform are certainly impressive.

Donghaochong Canal and Greenway

Carving a viridescent path through the heart of the old city, the Donghaochong Greenway is part of a celebrated urban renewal plan that has transformed this part of Guangzhou with kilometers of tree-lined bike paths and footpaths beloved of residents. It defies belief that until 2009, the crown jewel of the project – an elegantly landscaped, crystalline waterway now popular with swimming locals – was a fetid, sewage filled canal running beneath an inner-city expressway. So take to the verdant paths and witness, first hand, one of the great urban success stories of contemporary China.

Ou Ancestral Hall

The architecture of the ancestral hall nestled between humdrum residential blocks on Fangcao Street is less extravagant than its more ornate and better known, Chen-clan counterpart across town, but these quiet, watchful eaves have lived a fascinating array of lives. Constructed in the 1880s, the building underwent various transformations during the tumultuous 20th century. It served as a school, a printing factory, and a restaurant before the family, with the financial backing of their relatives from the USA, diligently restored it, returning the the ancestral hall to its former glory as a shining example of Guangzhou’s Lingnan architecture. Today, the hall has resumed something of its original purpose – serving as a community hub, where local residents get together, drink tea and play music.

Local Market Stroll

Guangzhou does many things better than other major Chinese cities (including, some would argue, food), but if there’s one area in which this metropolis truly excels it is markets. In one way or another vendors add color and charisma to nearly every Canton street, from labyrinthine underground electronics malls to meandering alleyways of antiques and jade, all with sounds and smells, sights and sensations as intoxicating as each other. Soak up the city’s character at this cluster of street-side stalls with a snack of something local or a sip of traditional Guangzhou tea.

People’s Park

There are many People’s Parks throughout China, but few are as intriguing or inviting as the one languishing in the heart of old Guangzhou. Stretching banyans and manicured verges of green create an oasis of shade in a city that can be ferociously hot in summer, while paved walkways are punctuated with statues to modernist writers, feminist warriors and even a Mao-era dissident. So step betwixt the gaudy yellow pillars that flank the entrance and relish the respite from the beautiful chaos of the city beyond with some refreshments. Experience a genuine sense of belonging as you engage in a myriad of captivating local activities, including playing ‘jianzi’ (feather hackysack), dancing, singing, and some thrilling card and board games.

Old Qingping Market

Delve into Guangdong’s unique food culture as we explore the food stalls at Old Qingping Market. Old Qingping is the city’s largest open-air market and is visited by tens of thousands of locals each day. Here, you will truly get to feel the pulse of local life and Cantonese market culture. Be sure to keep an eye out for interesting finds while exploring Old Qingping, because the market is also known for its assortment of traditional Chinese medicines.

Enning Road

Enning Road and its surrounding area is considered by many to be the most beautiful representation of old Guangzhou. The arcade-style buildings that slot together to line the roads are steeped deep into the city’s history, both inside and out. Amidst the regal buildings, stop to explore three not-to-be-missed places. First, a school where acrobatics meet piety – a lion dance academy. Second, a locale where culture and music combine – a Cantonese Opera museum. And third, an unassuming shuttered-building, the ancestral home of one of the world’s most famous Chinese martial artists and actors – Bruce Lee.

Farewell Dinner at Bingsheng Mansion (Michelin Star Restaurant)

End the trip in style, with the best Cantonese food Guangzhou has to offer. And, if you don’t take our word for it, take Michelin’s – they’ve awarded Bingsheng Manshion a Michelin Star. “Bingsheng Mansion’s main dining room and its 32 private rooms exude an understated glamour. Championing innovative and refined Cantonese fare, it serves hand-crafted dim sum at lunch, such as sachima with olive nuts, which is rarely seen these days. Special char siu uses pork belly that is marinated overnight and grilled till crisp. Other must-try items include stir-fried flat rice noodles with sliced beef, signature pineapple buns and roasted juicy goose.”

Your WildChina guide will escort you to the airport and help you check in for your flight home.